Reflections on the Stevenson Trail,Tarn Gorge, Causse Mejan, Mont Aigoual and the Cévennes.

The Pyrénees has been a special journey for me. I started them just two years ago really by accident. I was walking with my Swiss companion from Cahors and we ended up using the GR10 to get from St Jean Pied de Port to Irun. In those first five days the mountains stole my heart. Last year  walking from St Jean Pied de Port to Bolquuere. This year I finished them in Banyuls sur Mer. I have covered this in another post. I mention it here because any walk would have to be special to satisfy me after the Pyrénées.

I left my new friends and tried to get to Le Puy en Valey to start the Stevenson Trail. The Stevenson Trail is named after the author Robert Louis Stevenson who fist walked it 1878 with a donkey called Modestine. He was distraught over a woman called Fanny Osbourne, whom he later married. He later published Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes. The trail is now based on this journey between Le Monastier-sur-Gazielle and Saint-Jean-de-Gard.

 The day Tuesday 10th September that I left Banyuls to get to Le Puy there was a train strike. There was only a small number of trains in operation that day. It took me 12 hours I was hungry and tired by the time I arrived in Le Puy. Could not get accommodation in a Gite, then found a soulless hotel. All the main restaurants had then closed. The one restaurant that I found I walked out of because I was sitting 15 minutes waiting for my order to be taken. A half bar of chocolate was all the food that was left in my backpack. I eat it and went to bed.

I have been in Le Puy before and liked it but I just wanted to start walking again. Bought some lovely food and got a bus to Le Monastier and at 1.00 pm on 11th September 2013 started the Stevenson Trail. A short walk the first day to Le Goudet, a stunning Hamlet. The following day a short walk to Le Bouchet-Saint -Nicolas. It was cold, the landscape was pretty but it was not exciting me. Generally the walks I do excite me otherwise I could not have the passion for what I do. It was easy walking and as I have said before on the GR10 there are no easy days. One really should not compare walks but invariably to some extent you do.

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Pradelles

The following day I walked to Pradelles a nice walk through lovely countryside. I was still restless, the buzz I got from the Pyrénées was not there. It reminded me of some nice Camino walks I have done. I had a lovely meal in a great Gite called Terre d'Accueil. Now I have to change route slightly as there was an accommodation crisis ahead because of a major Motorbike Mountain Rally. Instead of going to Langogne or Cheylard-l-Éveque I would have to take a different route which was a Pilgrim road. It is the GR 700 Voie Régordane which would again join up with the Stevenson Way. I was to stay in the Monastery of Notre-Dame des Neiges.

I left Pradelles on a cold but sunny Saturday morning. The tiny country pathways were full of silver cobwebs in a glistening morning sun. The light was amazing. There was now a great spring in my step. I was now not on the Stevenson trail, I was told the marking to the Monastery might be difficult to find. It was not difficult to find, in fact it is clearly marked. The weather had got better it was warm, there was also climbing involved. Near the Monastery I heard a lot of gunfire which was quite common the last 5 days as it is hunting season. I then meet two hunters one of them had just shot a Boar. I photographed him proudly holding the recently deceased. A week later I had wild Boar for dinner, it was nice.

I then shortly arrived at the Monastery of Notre-Dame des Neiges. I was meet by a very elderly Monk, they were all elderly it is an ageing collection of monks, there seems to be little new blood. Stevenson stayed here on the 26th September 1878. Robert Schuman who was Prime minister of France twice, took refuge here during the Second World War. They have a thriving gift shop where they sell home made products, sweets, cakes, preserves, beer, wines, calenders, cards books etc. . There was a coach load of visitors eagerly buying the lovely produce served by a Nun at the cash register busily scanning the products. The ladies at the checkout of Tesco Sligo were never dressed like this, I started to smile to myself. I then went to Vespers at 6.30 pm, a very special moment indeed. The communal dinner was great, good company and flowing conversations in a few different language's one of which I understood. I had a little bedroom to myself and slept soundly.

Plaque on wall of Monastery

I had a great breakfast and said goodbye to the Monastery and its excellent hospitality. I had a great walk through mountains, forests, pretty villages and past the Viaduct at Mirandol

This walk is now really taking shape. I have a few more days and I will be in Florac. Then I have decisions to make. I am going to spend a couple of days with two friend of mine who live in the Tarn Gorge. Will I go back to Florac and continue the Stevenson trail, this is a safe option the route is well marked, I have the guide book, no need for detailed maps. Or will I do something else. Firstly I have to get to Florac. I have a great climb up Mont Lozere and climbed the highpoint of the Stevenson trail which is the Sommet de Finiels, which of course reminded me of the Aubrac which I walked last year. It is only about 20km in a straight line away from the Aubrac. Great views from the top and a great feeling . Then down to Finiels and on to the picture postcard town of Le- Pont de-Montvert. 

Nice climb the following morning through beautiful and historic landscape. I should mention here the deep history attached to this area regarding Les Camisards.  Camisards were Hugenots, French Protestants of the Cévennes, who raised an insurrection against the persecutions which followed the Edit of Fontainbleau in 1685. The revolt by the Camisards broke out in 1702 with the worst of the fighting up to 1704, then sporadic fighting until 1710 and finally a peace by 1715. The war really started in Le-Pont-de-Montvert with the assassination of Francois Langlade the Abbé Chaila. He had arrested and  tortured a group of Protestant trying to flee France.  Much blood had been spilled in this beautiful countryside I was now walking, this is in fact the reason why Stevenson had chosen this area. 

I arrive in Florac. I had contacted my friends several days earlier to say that I would arrive in Florac at 3 pm. I was very proud of my advance calculations and at exactly 3 I sat down for a coffee at the war memorial. It was great to see Leo and Bridget again. We then drove to their home in Sainte Enimie which is one of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France. We stopped at some beautiful places in the Tarn Gorge, then a lovely dinner and much talk late into the night. The weather had not been great the last few days and I wanted to finish my journey in good weather. I had even looked into the possibility of leaving the Cévennes and going to Provence.

The following day was grey and wet (one of the few in that area). I spent many hours on the computer I booked my flight from Carcasonne. That then meant I would stay in the general area of the Cévennes and not Provence. Big full sized maps were put on the table. The immense beauty of the area lay in front of me in lines and contours of different colours and shades. Why not leave on foot from here and still finish in St-Jean-de-Gard Stevensons finishing point. I wrote the names of little villages and mapped out a route on a few scraps of paper, it was decided with much help in planning from Leo, I was to walk through the Tarn Gorge to Le Rozier - Peyreleau, Meyrueis, Mont Aigoual and somehow on to St Jean de Gard or some other finishing point.

Breakfast with my lovely hosts, waited for the local Boulangerie to open at 8 am, it didn't and at 8.20 am I said goodbye and off I went. This was a new adventure for me. I would normally have a guidebook to follow or exact route marking. This was not the case. The following five days would bring me on local unmarked tracks, local marked tracks many different Grande Randonnée (GR) whom all incidentally have the same red and white marking, cattle tracks, country roads and in one case hitch a lift. This was the less trodden way, my feet brought me to places that other people would refer to as getting lost.

Amazing roof's near Tarn Gorge

The sun shone for those five days. I chased illusive butterflies with my camera.  I sat high up on Cliffs in the Gorge eating bread and cheese. The sweat rolled down my neck at 9.30 in the morning. I checked maps of local hikers I meet along the way, much smiling and nodding to make up for insufficient knowledge of their language. So tired at the end of day that I would go to bed without having a shower, will have one in the morning.Smiling to oneself realizing how really lucky I am to do what I am doing. Enjoying the actual moment and not just a retrospective view of it. Taking photographs I will be proud of.

I have given some detail in my blog of what I done in those five days and I wont repeat it here. There are a few things I will mention. The advice I got to choose this route. The kindness of a group of French hikers from Montpellier and the lady who drove me about 40km to Soudorgues. Getting a bag of Cévennes onions presented to me.  The game of Pétanque that continued until 4 or 5 am outside my widow in the tiny  mountain village of Soudorgues. Carrying 4 ks of onions in my backpack 22 kms the following day so I could eat them in Ireland and remember the great hospitality I received. Eating wild Boar in a tiny Gite d'Etapé. Enjoying the rewards of leaving the well trodden path and letting my feet take me on a journey that is not mapped out in every step. Sitting down to amazing local food in remote country places. Oh the French Food! Looking down at clouds from a mountain peak. Looking down at high mountains from an even higher mountain. Looking at my favourite outline, that of different shades of misty blue  mountains, forever into the distance. I can still see them.

Collection of Photos.

 Here is a collection from Stevenson Trail and Tarn Gorge, Cevennes etc.

Note that I left main Stevenson Trail in Florac. I then stayed with friends in Sainte-Enimie and walked along the Tarn Gorge to La Malene Les Vignes to Le Rozier/ Peyreleau. Then through the Causse Mejan to Meyrueis. From through the Cevennes National Park to Mount Aigoual and L'Esperou. Vallerauge to Notre de la Rouviere and then with the help and generosity of an amazing French Lady to Souorgues. Soudorgues  to Lasalle, St Croix Cadrle to St- Jean- du-Gard. Some Journey.

Gites at Le Pont Montvent

Blow my seeds to the wind.

Silver Cobwebs

Purple Flower

On the way to Les Alpiers Stevenson Trail

Colour Co-ordinated clothes peg, pure style.

On Mont Lozere

Between Pic de Finiels and Le Pont de Montvert

Near Finiels Stevenson Trail

Tarn Gorge

Between Le Pont-de-Montvert and Florac

Early morning 19th September 2013 Sainte Enimie

Tarn Gorge

The illusive blue butterfly easy to see so hard to photograph.

Tarn Gorge

The stunning Tarn Gorge

In the Tarn Gorge

In the Tarn Gorge

 Fighting over a female, usual stuff.

Near Chasserades, I don't actually know what this is.

On the way to Meyrueis

On the way to Meyrueis

"Lucy in the sky with Diamonds"

Mont Lozere, it reminds me so much of it's neighbour the Aubrac

Mont Lozere

Pétanque  - French Boules in the lovely village of Soudorgues every participant got a bag of Cévennes Onions they kindly presented me with the same.

Le Pont-de-Montvert 

Near Notre Dame de Neiges

On the way to Florac

Chestnut, Walnut Fig and Peach trees

Two glorious days of complete sunshine in blue mountains. Some hard uphill walking and in truth a bit crazy without proper maps bit I always got there. The problem is it is not only gr you have to use but many also mixed with local routes and then the road. So lots of chances to make mistakes, but of course you can ask for help if you can find someone, oh and then they speak a different language, the fun of it.
Sat night I eat wild mushroom omelette for starter then wild Boar for main course while at the same time a stuffed trophy boar head on a plaque looking down on me. It was tasty.
Yesterday the smell of wild mountain herbs in the afternoon heat was amazing. Long day walking over 10 hours. Stayed at a very tiny mountain village called Soudorgues. Was the only one in gite but there was a major local boules game taking place outside my window. All people taking part got a bag of the very special and expensive Cevenne onions plus a special hat. They then presented me with the same, strange bit great.  Lovely dinner and went to bed at 10.30. Some of them were just sitting down to dinner then.
I awoke at about 3 in the morning and they were still playing boules under floodlight. What people,what a place.
Finished today on Stevenson's finishing place of St Jean de Guard even though I did not follow his route. I have now just folded my walking Poles for this trip. What will the next trip be, who knows. Tomorrow to Carcassonne next day home, for a little while.

Les Alpiers, Le Pont de Montvert and now Sainte- Enimie

Viaduct at Miradol

Two great days of serious walking. Left Les Alpiers on Mon Morn and walked to Le Pont de Montvert, this took me over the highest point of the Stevenson Trail. I climbed over Mont Lozere and reached the Pic de Finiels just over 1600 meters. Then descended to the lovely village of Le Pont de Montvert. A stiff climb but amazing views, the first section reminded me of the The Aubrac, which is nearby. The second section looked somewhat like Glencolmkill, in Donegal.
Tuesday saw me walking another stiff climb and end up in Florac. The morning was very cold, but the views probably the best on walk so far. I was meet in Florac by some good old friends who now live in the Tarn Gorge in Sainte - Enimie. It is one of the most beautiful villages you counld imagine. The gorge itself is spectacular.

Wednesday. It is raining and still in St Enimie. Spent most of day catching up on practical matter. Have booked flight home from Carcasonne for next Wed. May now walk from where I am go through Tarn Gorge to St Jean du Gard on on to Ales making up my own route and not purely Stevenson, that is because this area is so stunning and would be a shame to stick to rigid route. Weather from tomorrow is forecast to be good.

Vespers, Hoodie's and a dead Boar

I really should not fill in any detail but let your imagination do the job using the title.
Now in Les Alpiers had 2 long days well over 70 km. Today was quite a lot of heavy woodland. It rained and was cold. The route was much longer than I had thought.
Saturday was a great day. Cold to start, the laneways were full of amazing silver cobwebs and autumn flowers. Some stiff uphill walking . I was staying in the Monastery Notre Dame des Neiges, but I had to be there by 5 so had to walk fast.
About 2 km from Monastery I heard a lot of gunfire which is common as it is hunting season. Then I meet 2 hunters who had just shot a wild Boar, I photographed him holding up the freshly shot Boar, you won't come across it Much on Ben Bulben.

The Monastery was amazing. Greeted by an elderly Monk who invited me to watch a film about Monastery. They seem to make everything' wine, beer, preserves, cakes, herbs, nougat, honey etc. They have a very up market shop, there was a coach tour in shop at that time. It was some sight to see a Nun with a hand held scanner at a checkout taking in wads of euos.
I then went to Vespers at half six great experience.
You can figure out yourself what the Hoodies were.

Day 3 Part 2

Pradelles

I might not have wi fi for a few days so might as well use it now. I normally never book ahead on my trips but have been advised to do so on this trip. On the gr10 I was very lucky because the French5 booked for me. As you can imagine language is a problem when phoning.
On Stevenson Trail I get the gite that I am in to book a place for me somewhere the following night. Today a problem everywhere for tomorrow Sat night is booked out. I went to tourist office and the only place I could get is in a Monastery. It is in Notre-Dame des Neiges, I will have to go off route to get there. It is actually on a Pilgrim route to St Jean dear Guard. The only problem I have to be there for 5 to get a key. There is then a communal meal at 7, it is donation. Should be very interesting.
This I think will mean I will jump a bit of the route, will travel on gr 700 instead of Stevenson which is gr70. Then Sunday will re-join Stevenson further on. The result I think I will gain a day. Might now be in Florac on Tue afternoon. Will see.
Dermot D

Day 3 Stevenson

Pradelles

Now in the village of Pradelles. Waked about 22 km today, started at 8 got here at 1. Staying in nice gite in centre of village yet to explore it, but believe there is lots to see.

The one thing you notice in this part of France is the amount of war memorial to both wars.

Today's walk was easy. They say there is no easy day on the gr10 and that is so true, bit there are easy day's on Stevenson Trail. Hope I am not tempting fate by saying that. The height I was at today was about 1200m. The scenery is beautiful. Rolling hills of some good farmland with the distinctly red clay that is a feature of the Puy volcanic landscape.

On practical matters still have the cold, which is a pain, bit OK.Today is also the first day I have got access to a washing machine, which is great. Washing by hand does not do the trick, so I should smell normal this evening.

The food is very good. For 33 to 40 euro you get a nice bed in shared room, 4 to 5 course dinner and breakfast. The breakfast  is usually bread and jam but still good.

Now for a bit of sight seeing. Intend to go to Cheylard-l'Eveque tomorrow.

Regards Dermot D

Now on Stevenson Trail

Now finished 2 short days on Stevenson Trail. Will have wi fi problems so posts will be occasional but will be updated at later stage.

Did get out of Banyuls on Tuesday but because of train strike had a very long day travelling, started at 9 and finshed at 9.  Was sorry to say goodbye to amazing gang of the French 5. Got TGV expensive. By the time I got to Le Puy all Gites were full so had to get Hotel. BY the time I got Hotel all eating places closed bar one but the service was so bad there I walked out. Bar of chochlate and to bed, the glamour of travelling.

Left Le Puy yesterday lunch by bus to start of Stevenson trail in Monastier sur Gazielle then walked  to the amazing Goudet, picture postcard stuff. Stayed in nice Gite there. Loads of Donkeys everywhere, a few asses as well. Are they all called Modestine!!!

Now in Le Bouchet Saint Nicolas. Short day. Using fixed computer no wi fi.

It is much colder and greyer than gr10, weather reminds me of home but easier to walk in. I do miss the Pyrenees. This walk is different people seem to do shorter distances and get their bags carried to next destination. Also language is more of problem everone seems to speak French, can you believe it.

Looking forward to rest of trip and meeting friends next week.

Food is very good.
Regards  Dermot D